Riomaggiore e Monesteroli, Friday May 26

Friday: Riomaggiore e il sentiero less traveled to Monesteroli.
You can get a paper cone of fresh mixed seafood for 6 euros in Riomaggiore, the town that seems most focused on the sea and fishing in addition to the terraced agriculture on the cliffs. To reach the town center from the train, we walked up a long wide sidewalk that spiralled up for about 5-10 minutes. Turns out that was the scenic view, and there's a tunnel from the train to the bottom of town. I'm glad we took it, though, because we saw this mural on the city hall. It seems to be telling a story of a man conquering a fish, and people in shock, and a benign goddess overall.

working on boats

 

pesce misto con calamari

After walking around Riomaggiore for awhile, we grew tired of the crowds. Instead of taking a restful afternoon as originally planned, we took a bus to the outpost of Monesteroli to walk some more on a less-traveled trail. We learned that the bus deposited us at Fossola, with a trail down to Monesteroli. Had a pleasantly animated conversation with the woman tending the store there; she has platinum spiked hair with bright colored streaks, wore flowered boots with a different pattern on each foot, and called everyone "mi amore."

The trail to Monestroli should take only an hour or so, but it is narrow, winding, and scenic. I think we reached the village, but to go on to "the point" on the sea would be another hike that went steeply down (and we'd have to retrace that path back up), so we stopped there. Actually, I stopped a little earlier than Marilyn, when I'd had my fill of the acrophobic path that dropped off on the side with nothing to keep you from falling down the mountain. Still, it was a gorgeous, out-of-the-way place.